Stockholm: In Three Days On A Budget

The Essentials

Accommodation: 

As you may have realised, it's been a long while since I wrote on this blogsite, hence with age comes a few more luxuries. While I find it a bit more difficult to slum it these days, it's still very possible to find reasonably-priced accommodation coupled with a good night's sleep.

The best way of comparing prices are sites such as TravelSupermarket or Sky Scanner - just so you know what to expect and when to go without having a last minute heart attack. Sweden is one of those places where it's easy to burn a hole in your pocket - so travelling smart is key.

As I am now holidaying in-between work, I tend to fork out for my own room these days - so the one that I can recommend is the First Hotel Norrtull in Vasastan. It's a bit more upmarket and a standard stay for business folk, but expect free breakfast for the £90 room tag (for two nights). It's also about a 15 minute walk from the city centre, but has great transport links.

Using third party websites:

After using Booking.com, I found that the difference between staying in a dorm and a hotel was around £50. It's a steep difference, even booked two months in advance, so you have a choice of staying in a hostel or a 'cheapish' hotel. Weekdays are the best especially as room prices shoot up on a Friday for the three day weekend.

When using Booking.com - make sure you choose the options 7+ and above on the review score section on the left hand menu bar to find the best hostels - for two nights expect to pay around £50 for a reasonable dorm near the city centre. The one that seems to be popular with great reviews is City Backpackers Hostel.

Getting to and from Stockholm:

Flights can be as cheap as £28 - I find that going on Sky Scanner, selecting the "cheapest month" on the date section, and then choosing the dates according to the price can be a good way of finding a deal. RyanAir and EasyJet are miles ahead in terms of providing low cost flights from Stansted Airport.

Places to See: 

Vasamuseet (Vasa Museum), Skansen Park, Stockholm Archipelago boat ride, Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace), Stadshuset, Fotografiska, Moderna Museet, Gamla Stan (Old Town), all of these areas are totally walkable.

Transport:

Stockholm has an extensive transport network, so taking a bus or even a boat is relatively easy. From both Stockholm Skavsta and Arlanda airports, you can take a Flygbussarna bus that goes to and from the centre of town which is £25 return - well worth the money as it's more than an hour long trip.

At the Stockholm Central Station, there are plenty of local shops such as a Seven Eleven where you can buy 24 and 72 hour SL cards as well as a week long pass for SEK300 (£27.50). I'd suggest planning your routes on Google maps beforehand as to avoid panic on the bus. Everyone pretty much speaks English so it's a piece of cake.

I also decided to be a total tourist and jump on one of the red boats near Kungliga Slottet. Two companies Red Sightseeing (£15 for 24 hours) and Stromma (£16.50 for 24 hours) provide boats to travel to all the main hotspots saving a bunch of time as you attempt to make the most of the three days. My legs were definitely toned and my skin tanned by the end of the trip, so sit back, relax and enjoy the view.

Breathtaking Bagan: Burma/Myanmar

Accommodation: If you choose to take the bus to Bagan and arrive at 3am, then it may be an idea to take the hotels on commission by the horse and cart (H and C) drivers who come to pick up travellers at that time. If shared, you can find better deals. The bus will stop at Nyaung U, and you will be able to find something easily. Eden Motel was a favourite with the LP, ranging from $5 to $10.

Places to see: The 4,000 temples of Bagan. Not all of course, but Old Bagan hosts the most spectacular shrines. Though Dhammayangyi Pahto (Central Plain) a colossal red brick temple and Ananda Pahto (Northern Plain) are the finest preserved temples. Best is to watch the sun rise and set over the wonderous city. Also catch a glimpse of the traditional Burmese markets.

Getting to and from Bagan: The cheapest and most non-exploitative mode of transport to Bagan is via bus for about $10-$15, 12 hours. You will need to keep your passport at hand when entering into Bagan, to buy an entrance ticket for the UNESCO site- even at three in the morning.

Transport: When travelling around the wonders that is Bagan, the best options is to either share a H and C (seems to be the national transport) for about K10,000 ($9 for the day). But if you're a bit more nature-friendly, than bicycles are available all round for less than a dollar a day.

Strolling into Bagan at 3am, earlier than expected was a surprise for SE Asian timing standards. It was as comfortable as a bus should be, again unexpected for the apparently 'backwards' Burmese. On the ready were what seemed to be chariot drivers waiting in the dawn light; but ended up being H and C drivers, a little less spectacular than my imagination. However, they were the kindest, most sincere people; and we were welcomed by their presence as we approached in the dark.

 Obviously rewarded with a miniscule commission, we were ushered into a hotel nearby the station. Although, at that time of night I didn't really mind, as I appreciated any more sleep possible especially with a 8am morning start. The plan was to trek through the boundless plains of Bagan, exploring its endless streams of ancient temples. So geared with the LP Bible, a water bottle as well as a digital camera, off we set, sleepy-eyed through the dusty tracks via H and C. The driver, a young man with a huge amount of knowledge drove us through Nyaung U, Old Bagan as well as the Central Plains, capturing the best of the 4,000 shrines still standing in Bagan today. Though I am less convinced, according to local know-how, in reality there were approximately 40,000 Buddhist temples for the King before numerous amounts of natural disasters wiped them off the face of Myanmar.

Despite the numerous disasters that occurred in this country, standing in awe of history seemed to wash away those thoughts and feelings. The red  brick structures were scattered throughout the city as if all that existed within these realms were the calm, meditative Buddha statues found hidden inside each of the temples. It was tranquil and sincere, with very few tourists ready to turn into a consumer venture.

 

Although there were local souvenir vendors at each temple, it seemed to be an honest living and I got to talking with a one of the sellers. I was curious to why the vendor had selected the most uninspiring spot at the temple, almost impossible to sell any of his wonderful handmade canvas paintings. I discovered that he was allocated there, and was unable to move anywhere else for consumer purposes earning a living- another perk to having a military regime rule a country. Unhappy with his situation, he quietly ushered me to a corner to speak about the general misery faced by local people. Definitely an enlightening conversation.

Alongside my travel buddies, a young Korean woman with ounces of travel knowledge and a hilarious Thai hotel manager, who was duped several times into buying pointless souvenirs; we took hundreds of snaps (mainly of the posing Thai man), but none that could actually capture the splendour. By the time the sun decided to make a quick get-away, we had visited over 12 temples, and we were officially 'templed out.' But not before catching a glimpse of it disappearing into the Bagan plains, from one of the highest temple points. The city glowed and basqued in the warm red sun, leaving only a sillouhette of the 4,000 temples. And though at this point, all the tourists began emerging from their hiding spots to do the same, it took nothing away from the vista.

The next morning consisted of the wonderful smells of the local market place in Nyaung U. From vegetables to local attire, the markets hosted a bountiful amount of Burmese booty. It was the smiles that made me buy something and not the general pushing and shoving. After a full day of templing, I decided to take it slower today, and after about half an hour, I spotted a little internet cafe cleverly disguised as a 7/11. The late afternoon sun was enough to make me drowsy-eyed, but instead I hopped on the back of a bicycle and repeated the day before. The night time was one that I literally forgot after several drinks, hence missing my 5am minibus of hell to Inle Lake. It was fate.

Bustling Bangkok, Thailand

Accommodation:
Tavee Guesthouse- 350baht Double room
Apple 2 Guesthouse- 250baht Double, 180baht Single, 100baht Dorm

Places to See: Chatuchak Weekend Market, Floating Market, Chinatown, Canal boats, Wat Pho, National Museum,Grand Palace

Plane from China: Not for the budget traveller!

Transport: Ferry from Khao San to South- (appx.) 15baht, Canal boat to MBK Shopping Centre- 9baht

Bangkok is everything that you hear in those legends passed down from starry-eyed hippy backpackers crossing SE Asia. From the bold to the brash, Khao San Road epitomises the Thai ‘Red light’ district that the oh so noble foreigners tend to chase after.

On the upside, taking a nice ferry boat as means of getting around Bangkok not only suggests travelling around for a bargain price of 15baht, but you get to witness the spectacular sunsets over Nam Mae Chao Phraya (the river going through the city.)

With tour companies aligning the streets of Bangkok, it is easy to get hypnotised and swept away. But it is a good place to bargain a good tour or in my case, a Thai cooking lesson; a must in SE Asian cuisine. From Massaman curry to Green curry, as well as a trip to the local market picking your own produce for the session: its an appetising way to spend a morning or a whole day. Just remember to keep the Fish sauce at hand, as it is literally the staple ingredient of most Thai food. Expect prices to be between $15 to $20 for a reasonable course.

One thing I realised over the course of this adventure is- always travel solo or with ONE other person. You will notice, compared to the usual extensively planned trips and data I provide over one year- this trip is seriously lagging. These were the intended places to visit, but unfortunately getting bogged down with technicalities meant that I have spectacularly avoided doing anything remotely productive.

Supreme Siem Reap: Cambodia

Accommodation: DMS Angkor Villa (Not Recommended!) $6 per night single ensuite

Bus: Same as from Phnom Penh, 6 hours

Places to Visit: Angkor Wat, Angkor National Museum, Massage

By this point it was time to head to my next destination (thankfully)- Siem Reap, a cultural rendevous for sure. After being frozen from the 6 hours bus journey, with A/C on full blast, I hopped off heading to my hotel. Now when I arrived, they told me I was non-existent, though my email confirming my booking said otherwise. This gave them enough time to send me to their 'other' guesthouse, this other being owned by the father. Surprise surprise.

To be once again greeted by an annoying Cambodian became customary, the receptionist within one breath asked me out for a drink and marriage. I never came out of my room ever again, well almost. At about 8am, I headed to Cambodia's 'pride and joy,' the Angkor Temples, one of the Seven wonders of the ancient world. Cool.

I took a motorbike (clearly I wasn't driving) to the temples, this being 1000 sq km, so I wasn't going to walk it. First stop was Angkor Wat, one of the main structures. And they weren't joking when they said it was big. I did a rather rushed 1 hour walkaround, having doubled on myself walking around it and having one day to see as much as I could. There were epic battle scenes from Hindu mythology, the Mahabharat, the Ramayana, the churning of the milk- it was all there engraved in elaborate detail. It was times like this I thanked my nightly religious story from my mother, it all made sense. A fair few lost tourists ogled the engravings having no idea what it was, that was when I stepped in being an amateur tour guide. I should have totally asked for money.

Next was a quiet temple up a large hill, Phnom Bakheng. People had told me it was busy during sunset, but it was completely empty when I got there! Fabulous, can't beat the view. There were hot air balloons parallel to the hill, and the sun raged on the temple of Shiva. The next must have been my favourite. Angkor Thom was a structure of humungous stone Buddhist and Hindu faces, carved within it. Now you have to imagine, these were constructed in the 12th century by some of the Hindu kings who had conquered South East Asia, epic does not cut it. The last one I could manage was the 'famous' one. Ta Prohm had been used for many film shootings including Tomb Raider, haha. It was quite eerie, especially as the tree roots enveloped the structure so it made it slightly shadier than the other temples.

By this point I died, and ended up back at my hotel to eat. The heat was pretty intense, and like a damsel in distress, I swooned. The nighttime was slightly more unexpected. My  friend managed to find me despite having moved hotels, so I was pretty surprised to hear a knock on my hotel door. Dinner was next on the agenda. I was all up for an outdoor barbeque, that was until she put some crocodile meat on it and I cringed. Then drinks was on the menu, at a bar that had fire limbo and fire poy by a man who kept burning himself :)

 

I was thrilled to have a relaxed last day off. So I leisurely woke up to end up in the National Museum of Siem Reap. It was basically a museum dedicated to the Angkor temples, so I was appreciative of the fact I had some insight into it. A few hours there, and then I headed to an art gallery. By this point, I had gotten a little bored of three hours gazing at objexts. So a masage was definitely in order. Once again, the night ended with drinks and the night market. The bar serving $1 cocktails meant we were in there like a shot (excuse the pun). The fact that the barmen were getting drunk on shift meant it was time to take full advantage. It ended with free drinks and the bar man giving us permission to dress him like a woman aka he had make up galore on.

 

Now heres the clincher...I dropped of my friend, as the three of us clung onto a motorbike. Next thing I remember was the driver swerving to avoid an oncoming collision, with another motorbike- then being clipped, or rather hit full on by the bike. The idiot driver didn't even realise, dropped me off at the hotel and drove off. So I went to the concierge, asking for some medical help. He drowsily replied 'we can't help you,'  and fell back asleep. It was time for spiteful revenge. In front of him was my expense page, this being all the services used at the hotel that was noted down, ready to be paid whilst I checked out. It was pretty easy to take as he snored away, and I burnt the blasted thing. Three days of free food, wahey! And it worked like a charm. On the downside, my arm and knee throbbed like a pulsating heart. And they bulged as I took the bus back to Phnom Penh. Thankfully, they heal slowly...

 

So after one night in Phnom Penh...my travels came to an end. And then back to -15 C in Beijing, a living freezer. One word to sum it all up- AWESOME, wouldn't change a thing. Met good people, ate good food and got a tan. Now time to go home!!!

Another World, Phnom Penh: Cambodia

Cambodia (Country Guide) 

Accommodation: Top Banana Guesthouse, $6 a night single room, www.topbanana.biz/

Bus: Capitol Tours, $7 from HCMC, Phnom Penh-->Siem Reap-->Phnom Penh, 7 hours

Places to See: Royal Palace, Tuol Sleng Museum S21, Killing Fields, National Museum, Wat Phnom

So Cambodia, was a mixture to say the least; consisting of the lazy walkarounds of Laos and Vietnam's crazy history...interesting was an understatement. So here goes.

I waved goodbye to Saigon's motorcycles and humdrum life to venture to my next destination- Phnom Penh, Cambodia. The bus journey was the one of the shortest ones I encountered so far- a mere 7 hours, piece of cake I thought. That was until the woman next to me started eating (which was about 5 minutes into the journey). An hour later I must have been covered in crumbs and orange peel, not to mention her legs as she sprawled across both seats thinking I was also a part of the upholstery. On the upside, she gave me food- it was payment for being her foot stool.

 

Now if you remember the China/ Laos border crossing affair, running around thinking I was stuck between the borders and the bus had left me...so dreading the Vietnam/ Cambodia border was a definite. But on the contrary, it was the exact opposite. The coach conductor took full charge of the paperwork, all we had to do is pay money and smile at a camera-and bob's your uncle, we were in Cambodia!

 

Being greeted, rather hounded by Tuk tuk drivers asking either of the following options: stay at their 'friend's' guesthouse, be taken on a tour or hand in marriage, simultaneously meant my blood pressure started rising. A simple no should have sufficed, but when I was sat down in a Tuk tuk, surrounded by 10 drivers asking me for 10 minutes of my time, I grabbed my bag and nudged my way out of their dominion. Finally I made it to the next party central hostel- but this was no SpicyLaos or Drift Backpackers...it was more like a hippy opium den. Hmmm, this could go either way I thought.

 

In Top Banana guesthouse there seemed to be the following two types of characters. One was the lost student/ graduate refusing to find a job, two was the older mid and quarter life crisis men, who had basically lived in the guesthouse for 2/3 years at a time. Being a solo girl, I didn't quite fit into either (thankfully) but I had many nightly conversations with both over some Angkor or Anchor beer;Thai and Cambodian beer that seemed to taste exactly the same.

Thankfully there was one relatively normal Korean American guy who also didn't fit into the status quo and so we journeyed around Phnom Penh by foot and Tuk tuk for 3 days. As soon as I landed we started walking around the city, this taking 6 hours without even realising it. Within the 6 hours, there was coconut drinking, trigger happy photo taking, bar hopping and occasionally running into a 'lady of the night.' See this would not be the end of it which I never realised at the time.

 

The next day was going to be a depressing one. I thought it would be best to get all of the historical rather horrific sights out the way- so here goes...(feel free not read this if you have a weak disposition) First stop was Choeng Ek Killing Fields. That is exactly what it was. So to welcome us into the large grassland with a giant memorial, a 5 storey high building; filled with skulls. About twenty thousand was the figure. Now I am not sure if you are aware that during 1976-1979, the Khmer Rouge (so-called Communist) government controlled Cambodia. The dictator Pol Pot, within this time went on a killing spree, consisting of murdering anyone who seemed to be elitist. Now he wasn't too specific on what elite was, aka even people with glasses was murdered as well as their wives and children.

In three years, three million people were killed in mass graves such as Choeng Ek. Yep, told you it would be depressing. All establishments that seemed of a upper class nature were either destroyed or converted into prisons- that would be my next stop.

 

The fields were surprisingly calm despite all of the history that stained the earth. There were huge craters, some with descriptions on how the people met their ends. The few that struck me was one grave that had '160 bodies with no heads,' in a space that was big enough to fit a bathroom in. Even more so was the tree, where babies heads were smashed against, eek. There were even still traces of clothing and bones around the fields.

 

So after that 'delightful' visit, we headed to the next site; Tuol Sleng (S21). It was originally a school that had been reconstructed as a prison of torture. The prisoners were usually sent to the Killing Fields after they were sufficiently beaten in confinement. There was something even more eerie about the prison. It was quiet, deafeningly silent. Each classroom consisted of just one bed in the middle, a metallic contraption with various other torture devices on top of it, and then a large photograph of one of the 14 victims found dead within the place, in the actual state they were in.

Building B had thousands of pictures lining up across the rooms. Each victim held a number plate, with a solemn countenance, as if they were already dead. Some just barely hit 12 years old, and even babes with their mothers had a shot taken of them. The last room was pictures of their fate. Building C and D were small 'solitary' prisons, no windows, just a brick box to live their last days in.

 

Okay, so after that, being sufficiently depressed was a guarantee. Drowning our sorrows seemed to be the apt thing to do, but a quiet night in was also appropriate. The next day brought more cheery moments for sure.

 

The National Museum was a glorious architectural structure with all sorts of ancient artefacts preserved within it, to present Cambodia's vast cultural history. This being Hindu and Buddhist statues that had been unearthed from some of their magnificent temples. It was a lazy day in all, but it did not prepare me for the night ahead.

 

The first bar was a swanky highrise place, that of course consisted of kareoke. The second was a claustophobic nightclub, enough to fit about 10 people in, yet had hundreds. This is where I happened to be approached by a female prostiture. Yep, thanks I thought in a complete sarcastic way. Then came the madness. Being trapped in a Tuk tuk with one of the quarter life crisis men, his name being Rudie but he prefered to be called the Dalai Lama (exactly) was a rather insane experience.

 

In a small dark alleyway, we stopped in time for him to get into another random car, drive off for 20 minutes and then return with drugs. I was ready to jump out. This guy was crazier than I thought, to give you an example: he took your hand from time to time, then would have a seizure telling you he can see your future.


Yep. I had landed in an asylum. The next place epitomised him, it was basically a brothel. There were hundreds of old foreign men with a young Cambodian nymph on the end of their arm. I hid against the bar being the only foreign girl there, creepy...

So This Is It Saigon: Vietnam

Accommodation: Kim Ngan Guesthouse, $12 a night private ensuite

Bus: Same Travel Pass, 27 hours

Places to Visit:

• Cu Chi Tunnels
• My Tho & Ben Tre Delta
• Reunification Palace
• War Remnants Museum
  

Then came the crazy 28 hour bus ride down to Ho Chi minh (Saigon). It was a definite, that I was not going to sleep for a while after New Years. Ahh how I miss sleep. We stopped off at every major city along the way, so enough time to pee at a restaurant in every place. Nha Trang was the only city where I managed to catch a beautiful beach on an early morning rise. It was pretty quiet still, and the water swayed around the sand and the green mountains. It made the journey worthwhile, well almost.

Reaching in the night meant I had to wait for the morning to venture out. Although I did manage to walk about and get lost within 10 minutes leaving my hotel, duh. The hotel was awesome, so I had to move on my last night to another room, but it didn't stop the sweet grandmother owner to give me free drinks all day! So I headed to My Tho and Ben Tre the next day, two islands on the Mekong delta. It was day to be dragged around like a sheep, which was fantastic as we went to a coconut factory, ate some yummy candy, had some pure honey tea at the Bee farm, and I even held a python eek!! And then took a leisurely canal ride through the tropics, absolutely fabulous, can't complain.

The next day I shot an AK47, a military rifle...as you do in Vietnam. Damn loud contraptions...then to end the day I went to the War Remnants Museum- a reminder why not to shoot an AK47. It was a stomach hurling experience, taking photos of only the appropriate displays; just to give you an idea why not to stock this in your camera- there were real-life deformed human foetuses in jars on display, to show the affects of chemical bombs. Yep, yikes.

HBO Hue: Vietnam

Vietnam (Country Guide)

Accommodation: Hongthien Hotel, $10 a night private ensuite, hongthienhotel.com


Bus: Travel Pass, $25 throughout Vietnam, 5 stops, 13 hours


Places to Visit:

• Forbidden City
• Tomb of Tu Duc
• Thien Mu Pagoda
• Thuan An Beach
• DMZ 

It was luxury, arriving at a hotel, with my own bed, mini fridge, bathroom and HBO cable TV. I was doomed to never go out. The night times consisted of movie marathons, however utterly rubbish the film was. The day times were a little more productive...making my way to the Demilitarised Zones. Going through the underground tunnels and Ho chi Minh trail- consisted of rather interesting underground tunnels, where the tiny Vietnamese lived for 6 years in miniature spaces. It only barely managed to fit my height, so explains how antlike it was (yes yes I know I am vertically challenged.) Then to see the remains of American bombs and fighter jets, was happy to get some insight but the guide was totally unintelligible, her English was pretty bad and forgot to pronounce many of her consonants ie. the tunnels became 'Tunna.''

What else from Hue? The cyclo driver who said he would give a free ride one night, at the end opened out his hand and asked for 50 dong (about $1.70) its not much but he actually tried to dip his hand into my purse! A polite slap on the wrist set him right. Then I was befriended by a waitress who said that she wanted to go to the beach with me as it was her day off, and she wanted a fun girly day out. She then fed me at her house in the village out of Hue, it was a tin hut with one room for 6 people and her dog was evil, but it was a day of appreciation for the local life and the food was fab. The next day I did something out of the ordinary. I behaved and my mother would be proud...I took a Vietnamese cooking lesson! It was pretty awesome, going out to the markets, buying local ingredients and then testing out our culinary skills. The menu was fried and fresh spring rolls, beef noodle soup and Banh Xeo , a traditional Vietnamese pancake with shrimps, pork and veg all wrapped up. Yummy.


That's where I met my adopted mothers. I met these two lovely women in the cooking class, they were from New Zealand and were sisters in law. Being my mum's age they took care of me like their little cub or puppy (if you prefer.) They invited me to their hotel's dinner event, quite swanky, where they were staying and we watched live entertainment. It was traditional dancing and singing, and amazing instruments, topped off with kareoke of course. It was spectacular! The food was all you can eat, and literally there were bbq, Japanese, Chinese, continental food, rows and rows of desserts...I stocked up on my food intake for sure for the next few days. So New Years was tame that's for sure and the complete opposite of Christmas.

Humdrum Hanoi: Vietnam

Accommodation: Drift Backpackers Hostel, $5.50 per night dorm room
thedriftbackpackershostel.com

Flight: (I chickened out on the infamous bus ride)  A steep $140 one way, 1 hour- www.tcd-travel.com

Places to Visit: 

• Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum & Museum
• Women's Museum
• Temple of Literature
• Hoan Kiem Lake

Lets get started on the mayhem of Vietnam...

Went to the airport and found several girls also making their voyage to Hanoi. The check-in system being rather confusing, we rallied together to get our boarding passes. Even sharing a taxi to one of the girl's hostel, I then took a moto/ xe om to my guesthouse. Now the streets of Hanoi are, to put it nicely, a rif raf of millions of motorcycles and plenty of cars trying to outrun eachother all at the same time. So riding on the back of motorcycle, I was frightened for dear life. I think I must have made a dent in the driver's shoulders trying to hold on.


Then came my accommodation. I went down an alleyway in the most chaotic part of town, to find Thu Giang Guesthouse. I was greeted by a young woman, only to be told 'My aunt's guesthouse is around the corner, you will be staying there.' Okay, in S E Asia, this is normality, but never a good sign. Down another alleyway, in front of a road made to kill all life forms possible, I entered a a large, dilapidated concrete building. At the top was my private room with my so-called shower. This being the worst fitted plumbing in history, I was pretty sure that the 90 year old 'aunt' may have tried a makeshift job on it. As I turned the knob to obtain my lovely shower, the entire thing came off into my hand. Hmmm....interesting I thought.


There and then I decided, no matter how many beds I may have to climb, and how decent I would have to behave, I was going to stay at a backpackers hostel, so I drove back to the origin, and booked myself into there for the entirety of my stay in Hanoi. Now, this hostel happened to be a slightly more cleaner version of SpicyLaos yet the partying was the same. However getting too old in my days, meant I was a good girl...promise. But at 3000 dong a pop/ 10p for a beer, its pretty hard to resist: see cheap and alcohol are 2 words that should be miles apart from each other.

Christmas eve was not the usual style, first going to the Womens Museum (haha surprise surprise) which was out of this world- Women being an integral part of the Vietnam war, it was a homage to all the women who fought and died during the struggle. And then dinner with my new plane friend and her mates, already based in Hanoi. The night ended with the yummiest mulled wine, passing out (almost) on her bed and fitting three people on the back of a motorbike home. Christmas on the other hand was a whole other kettle of fish.

Walking around the treacherous alleys of Hanoi, was not that easy. But we managed, and ended the night with the craziest hostel party in the world. There were buckets of alcohol, including Sambuca, fluorescent paint on every living creature there and even mild stripping-courtesy of the Pikey brits. Decent went out the window.

So of course the obvious thing to do the next morning was to pay our respects to the big man himself, Ho Chi Minh at his mausoleum...creepy. God he would be spinning in his grave, if he was in one. He lay lifeless (clearly) but was fragile, pale and thin. They designed it to make you shiver next his tomb aka. A/C blasting from all directions, pin drop silence, and having to walk in a line to get a glimpse of him for 2 seconds. Scary stuff, but he was cute like your granddad nonetheless. The next day was a 13 hour bus ride to Hue, Central Vietnam.

A Gentle Sway: Vientiane, Laos

Accommodation: Youth Inn 2, $10 a night private room

Bus: South Terminal, $10 for A/C bus, 12 hours

Places to Visit:

• Phat That Luang
• Wat Si Saket
• Buddha Park

Well, Vientiane, Laos was a rather different affair from the mad drinking and partying of Luang Prabang. For one, I had my own room, wow such a luxury to be indecent in the privacy of your own space. Two, it consisted of wandering about, able to appreciate the sites in my own spiritual company. So when I decided to take a tuk tuk 25km out the city, to go to what had been described as a 'nutty' park, I had to pay homage to my fellow weirdos. It really was quite a sight. Giant Hindu and Buddhist stone sculptures dotted around the park. Now when I mean 'giant,' I mean the Great Wall of China 'giant.' Picturise being able to enter the mouth of a colossal Buddha, and stand on top of its head. Exactly, nutty.

It was such a strange mixture of Buddhas, and millions of Hindu Gods, including Brahma (The Creator with 3 heads) Kali (the war goddess, with a black face, holding a head of a man and various weapons in her 6 hands- yeesh is she unhappy) and the monkey god Hanuman, all in the same vicinity. It was a party. The night was a slightly random affair; over dinner, a young Dutch man introduces himself- he looks like a stoner surfer just with dark hair and a bandanna. Since nightlife is scarce in Vientiane, we roamed around talking and walking through the night. There seems to be a lot of Engineers flitting about S E Asia, it seems, I am not really surprised.

Ultimate Party Town: Luang Prabang, Laos

Laos (Country Guide)

Accommodation: SpicyLaos, $6 for dorm
Spicyhostels.com/Spicylaos-Backpackers.html


Bus: Long Distance Bus Station to Luang Prabang, 340 yuan, 28 hours

Places to Visit:

• Phu Si Hill
• Wat Xieng Thong
• Tat Kuangsi Waterfalls
• Pak Ou Caves (optional)

Well, what can I say- it was 25- 30 C, absolutely baking! There were palm trees swaying, and half naked foreign people and outdoor food stalls with the greatest cuisine on earth-yep it was definitely summer here for us. Whilst the poor locals were wearing cardies, jumpers and jackets- as this is officially cold weather for them. Some people have it all...


Well, it all started with a 27 hour bus journey to Laos from S. China. Madness you say!!! No it actually was quite a hoot, China being a little bit more modern then Laos, we got to have a sleeper coach. For people who have absolutely no idea what I am talking about- it is exactly that. Rows and rows of bunk beds- about 30 in total to fit the whole coach, so calling it a laid back affair gets it spot on. The night time was beautiful- this will sound cliche for sure, so feel free to yawn through it- there was a million stars in the dark navy sky, I had never seen them so bright before and so clear, all twinkling and lighting up the dark mountains! Whilst the day time, was exactly as you see Vietnam or any other South East Asian Country in a postcard- lush green mountains, palm trees, small villages, smiling children. It was amazing, especially as the sun was setting. Crossing the border was another thing altogether. I was woken up at 7.30- after the coach stopped for a few hours in the dark, to wait until the border crossings opened. See this was the first time in the last 15 hours where I managed to get any shuteye, so I moaned and tried to turn around to block out the Chinese shoutings to get up, but meh I had to cross the border didn't I?


It took about an hour and a half in total, which consisted of me running frantically between the China and the Laos border, thinking that the bus had left without me. The Chinese guards told me, I couldn't come back in unless I wanted them to stamp my visa- and after all the hassle of getting another entry- I savoured my visa- so definitely a no -no. Eventually being slightly half- asleep and a bit delusional, I realised I had to walk to the Laos border, get my visa- and then they would pick me up from there. Phew! Some crazy woman however bought gallons of cooking oil on the bus, and drenched my rucksack in the awful stuff...great.


I met a group of hilarious Chinese men on the bus, all family- one was the son, the other a father, an uncle and I think maybe another uncle. They were pretty mad, and kept feeding me oranges, (guess what) poisonous white spirit toilet cleaner again Bai jiu and general dinner throughout the 2 days. I think it kept it pretty lively- even the father offered a marriage proposal to my mother. I politely refused as you do to a strange drunken Chinese man. But all of sudden, the driver tells me I am at my stop. Being the only one going to Luang Prabang I rushed out with my oil-soaked bag, and realised I was left pretty far away from the centre as the bus drove away. So it being 10pm, pretty late for Laotian standards, I hurried to any small open lit store for some help.

This wasn't China I realised. I spend 27 hours nattering away, and across the border I couldn't speak a word. I pointed frantically at a map going- Khawy yaak pai ( I want to go), the nice lady understood and grabbed a friend around the corner even as she was closing up the store. She told me to hop on to the back of her motorbike, with my ton of a rucksack, which I felt I was slowly falling off- even at one we had to stop as our balance was about to throw us off! But with aid of the lovely lady, I made it to the infamous SpicyLao aka party central.

As soon as I landed, I was handed a whisky Lao in other words, BAI JIU!! Thinking I had escaped the many repressed memories of Mongolia, I was in for a long night. It was me, the owner's brother, the Tuk Tuk driver (a random S E Asian vehicle, a motorbike that carries a load of people) and a friend of theirs, all local Laotians. So after a few sing -songs around the campfire and Beer Laos- just to make sure we were sufficiently plastered, we headed to DISCO, eek!!! If anyone was epileptic (or even not) they would surely have a seizure, as the lights flashed at a hundred a second. The music was cheesy as hell- aging RnB as well as cheesy Lao pop, not to mention the slow dancing- a ballad would come on; the men and woman would split the room in half, find a partner and start dancing. Yep, its all true.


So next morning, after a large amount of people had saw me partying around a campfire- I was easily recognisable- not to mention severely hungover. But I guess thats the time to climb a giant waterfall, look at cute baby bears and go for a swim. Perhaps not- especially not being acclimatised to the heat, I was wearing leg warmer, a woolly hat, and hiking boots- yep not the smartest idea. It all got soaked of course, especially as I had to walk through the water. Well, I was in the water for about 5 mins, realised it was absolutely freezing and jumped out again. So when everyone decided we should go climb another hill to watch the sunset, I whimpered. But it was beautiful, despite the millions of bobbing heads, anxious to get a picture on time. The night market just below, was beginning, which was a very happy moment for me. It became my best friend.

Millions of stalls with yummiest, freshest food- (vegetarians may turn away now) Fish straight from the river barbequed with lemon grass and honey, honey chicken and pork on the barbeque, I avoided the water buffalo like the plague though, fresh spring rolls with sweet and sour sauce, lettuce and peanut sauce...for under a dollar! So good. But it was the crazy nightlife that surprised me- though it all ended at 11.30, it was well worth the short time. Utopia bar- was eutopia to a T. It was like being on a Caribbean island, palm trees, actual coconuts hanging off, with a sheer drop on the side as you could watch the night time Nam Khan river under the stars. There were lying down mats, with low tables, and even an actual beach volleyball court! The random bombshells on the other hand were a bit odd. But it was too cool for school.





Then there were the slightly lazier days, walking around town visiting beautiful Wats (temples), the Royal Palace museum, photography exhibitions that were out of this world, the Royal Laotian Ballet, even just getting a massage whilst eating chocolate pancake with chocolate ice cream. Over the top self indulgence eh? But the best bit was meeting the crazy people in SpicyLaos, it was one big happy family. And there was always a send off if any of the brothers or sisters left!





And then there was a manic 11 hour journey from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, including only winding roads, poor people being squashed in the middle aisle with plastic stools, making constant rice bag drop offs, not to mention the blaring kareoke all that time and then roaming around at 11.30 in the night trying to find a place to stay. Thankfully I bumped into a couple on the bus doing the same, so now I am a Youth Inn next to the River. It does the trick I think- first time not in the dorm, so a bit surreal not hearing noise. I ended up in the International Clinic this morning, probably too much Whisky Laos is starting to catch up with me! But still managed to visit the big temples and museums around. Its so pretty!

Essential Tips for Couch Surfing

www.couchsurfing.com

For those taking the plunge and sleeping on random sofas around the world, here are a few essentials for making the most of your couch surfing experience.

Creating a profile is always a good way of putting yourself out there, making sure you do not come across as a psychopath and more of a sociable person. If you have the time, try and be thorough, otherwise whilst messaging potential couch owners- be polite and be specific in dates and times.

So what are you looking for in the profiles? Here we have a few tips:

• Check the percentage replied. In this way you know how reliable the person is, and how long to expect a reply especially if it’s an emergency. Also check how often the person logs in to their account. If it dates back to 2009, then they may not be checking their profile very often.

• Look for references, just to make sure they haven’t escaped an asylum, even more so to check if their claims are true. Similarly, look for the ‘Vouch for’ symbol that resembles a piece of card being stuck down, for reliability.

• The amount of friends the person has and photographs also clarify if the person is real

• Depending on how much you want to learn the language, checking whether they are beginner, intermediate and expert in English and other languages is also vital.

• Ensure that they actually have a couch. Look for the sofa with a white tick on it otherwise; chance the image of a sofa without one which means that they don’t have a definite couch available.

• Another way before actually couch surfing with someone, is to send them a message first to scrutinize them, giving any queries beforehand and then request to actually couch surf with them. It's always good to have some friendly dialogue before you meet them.

• Leading on from the last point, remember couch surfing is NOT a sexual exchange, whatever the profiler may tell you. Do not feel obliged to do sexual favours to stay. In this way, perhaps staying with your preferred gender is the safest option (especially for women.)

• There have been a few unnerving stories about botched up surfing, which is why the main thing is to use your instinct. If something smells fishy, it usually is. A good way of picking cities and countries to stay at, is seeing the number of couches in that area. If there are a fair few- ranging from the hundreds to thousands- then it's a common trend there and should be safer. Usually avoid anything under 100 couches in a country.

When you find the perfect couch:

• After you have come to a mutual agreement to stay, remember to leave all your main details including- name, contact number, date and time with them. Even more so, remember to get their information otherwise it may be impossible to find them!

• Be polite, they are being courteous enough to let you stay for free. Make plenty of conversation and get tips and advice for places. They may be kind enough to show you around.

• Be clean, last thing they want is to fall over your mess wherever you stay.

• Keep your valuables in a locker or with you in a secure pouch.

• When you leave, it would be a nice gesture to give them a ‘thank you’ card, or anything small to show your appreciation. You never know, you may even be given the opportunity to stay there again if you are nice enough!

New York: In Five Days- Day 5

Day Five

With only a few hours to go to catch my flight, a nice way to round off the trip is at the Museum of Natural History. Ranging from the prehistoric period to modern Space and Science, the museum gives an all-round viewing of the wonders of the Natural world. And to eat a cheap hotdog on the steps across Central Park, ideal way to watch New York life go by.

Just a tip:

• If you are couch surfing, it is always a pleasant gesture to give a ‘thank you’ card, even if it doesn’t go to plan and the chemistry doesn’t quite work.

• Travel light. It is always a hassle lugging around masses of luggage with you if you are for the majority, travelling by subway and walking.

• Feel free to ask for directions if you get lost. Despite the fast pace, people are friendly to help you out. Carrying a map is always handy, even if it’s just the guidebook.

• Budget- a major problem in New York as things does not come cheap! Carry a small notebook to jot expenses if needs be.

• Preserve your energy! (Now being like a mum) eat regularly, sleep well and drink plenty of water if you are walking excessively.

• Most of all, just enjoy it- New York is electric and just a wonderful place to spend a few days!

New York: In Five Days- Day 4

Day Four

Viewing the spectacular horizon of New York from the Empire State building is a revitalizing breath of fresh air for an early morning. With the structure currently towering at an impressive 1,250 feet (381m), it is without a doubt the tallest building in the New York skyline.

A slightly lazy walkabout the area, remembering to dine at some point- is a wonderful way to spot some big places of interest such as Madison Square Gardens. If you are lucky enough to be there at Sport season, then watching a game in all its glory is a definite must! Unfortunately, December isn’t the peak time for the NBA, but getting tickets from $10 (restricted viewing) is available!

Instead I went to check out MoMA (Museum of Modern Art) with what I would have to say the most extensive and varied amount of works that I have seen to this day. From Picasso, Francis Bacon and Dali to Cezanne and Lictenstein, a hundred years of art were all displayed in all its splendour. The focal point would have to be the relaxing nucleus of the museum, with hypnotic giant screens and music and equally comfortable sofas.

Just around the corner is the climax of it all. Finally, the time has come to view the incredible but cheesy Radio City Christmas Bonanza. It officially was the most jam-packed show, from 3D scenes to Santa Claus, Jesus Christ, a bus full of the can-canning Rockettes and the Nutcracker. It felt like watching several theatres in one go, and the alluring lights were enough to keep both parent and child hooked from start to finish.

Exiting Radio City, leads you directly opposite- you guessed it- Home Alone 2’s famous Rockafeller Christmas Tree and Ice rink. Exactly pictured in the film, the tree is a magnificent 75 to 90 feet tall and is annually erected in late November. The tradition began during the Depression-era construction of Rockefeller Centre, when workers decorated a small balsam fir tree with "strings of cranberries, garlands of paper, and even a few tin cans" on Christmas Eve, 1931, and has continued ever since.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral stands opposite the Rockafeller Centre, a poignant way to reflect for a moment and light a candle within the historic, magnificent cathedral.

As my partner is a devout NBA fan, a trip to the NBA Store was a good way of satisfying someone’s basketball passion as well as buying a souvenir- Sorted.